Sealing your pavers is a good way to prevent mildew growth, weeds and preserving the color from bleeding due to sun exposure and repetitive cleanings. Which over time can bleed the dye out of your pavers. But there are many types of sealers to choose from. The problem you face with South Florida is humidity. Oil base sealers look great and have a beautiful shine when completed properly. But conditions must be practically perfect for the job to come out right and many fly by night companies or handymen will not do the prep work correctly to have proper adhesion. When applying a sealer, the area must be cleaned properly, acid etched in most cases to have a good bond and must be thoroughly rinsed of all chemical residue from cleaning process which can react with the sealers leaving a blotchy white look once dried. And especially the case with oil base or xylene-based sealers the pavers must be completely dry. If an applicator rushes the process and applies an oil base sealer the same day as the cleaning or it rained prior to application the sprinklers turned on if the area is moist in shaded areas, you will have problems with the seal job in the future. For that reason, I recommend water base sealers. We use cobble loc which can be applied even in damp conditions without any issues or having that blotchy white appearance you probably have seen on previous sealing jobs you have had done or your neighbors. Also, if you are having the area sanded before you seal you cannot roll the sealer on without the roller nap picking up sand out of the cracks of the pavers and slapping it back on top leaving clumps of dried sand all over your pavers. Once that happens you are going to have a tough task removing the clumps of sand. Unless the area really needs sanding, I normally don’t recommend it. But if you should choose to fill the crack with sand you must use a blower to remove the loose sand on the top of the project area and a sprayer to apply the sealer. Sometimes a cheap seal job might look attractive but may come with consequences that you will regret later. Remember whomever you choose to seal your pavers they should be etching or using products called paver prep. Blowing your pavers off with a blower. And area must have 24 hours of dry time if applying an oil base sealer. Sealers will always break down in the areas with most sunlight first leaving the shaded areas much more brilliant in color. When you are resealing, you should take every precaution to have old sealers removed if they are breaking down unevenly. The work area must be taped off with caution tape after the cleaning and left up until area is completely dry to prevent dirt, mud and tire marks from ending up on your project area which in some cases a lazy applicator will just brush off and seal right over a tire mark and now its trapped under the sealer.The job to the left is one of my largest projects not by size but by work involved. First hired to clean it which homeowner was hoping for complete removal of sealer lol we always know when we arrive to a clean driveway. I informed the client it would not come off. And after a few cleanings he finally gave in to my suggestion to sand blast. A cost of about 9k. Sand blasting removed the old xylene based sealer and then we applied several coats for the finished shiny look with deep red color. Other house is simply Chicago brick. And an oil base.